LOW-PROFILE HAS ENTERED THE CHAT: IS SUPER SLIM THE NEW BLACK?

Fashion’s a pendulum, and right now, it’s swinging hard in a new direction. After years of chunky midsoles, bulky silhouettes and “max comfort” runners, a very different vibe is creeping in — slimmer, sleeker, way more refined. And if your algorithm looks anything like mine, you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about.

Being a dad myself, it’s no shock that the dad shoe silhouette has had a pretty firm grip on my sneaker rotation for many years, ever since the now-iconic YEEZY Wave Runner first dropped. My collection’s a bit of a mixed bag, but it leans heavily towards mid-00s shapes, retro runners and a fair few basketball-inspired shapes. Those latter two — retro runners (AKA dad shoes) and hoops silhouettes — have always spoken to my tastes, my interests, and how I like to dress.

But let’s be honest — the basketball shape that seemed to dominate the late 2010s and early 2020s has lost a bit of its oomph. And while I’ll always make room for a good dad shoe (especially as my back pain worsens with each passing year), the trend itself is definitely slowing down. Part of that, I think, comes down to the terrace takeover — Sambas, Gazelles and Spezials from adidas have ruled the streets over the last couple of years. But more than that, I think we’re seeing the next phase of things. A shift. An even slimmer, sleeker chapter. One that’s arriving in the form of the ballerina-esque profile that seems to be everywhere right now — online, offline, and on-feet all over the cities I visit.

Now don’t get me wrong — this trend does feel more female-led, at least for now. The Puma Speedcat is easily the front-runner in what is being called the “sneakerina” movement — a wave that feels poised to have the market in a stranglehold come mid-summer. But it’s not just Puma making moves. adidas is in on it too, digging into the archive and reviving models that follow that same slimline formula.

Take the adidas Taekwondo, for example. It’s not a ballet-inspired sneaker by any stretch, but it shares those same stripped-back, form-hugging design principles — and that’s exactly why it’s taking off. More recently, adidas has doubled down on the look with help from long-time collaborator Bad Bunny, whose aptly-named adidas Ballerina dropped not too long ago. And I’ve got to say — styled by the Puerto Rican rapper (who I’ve quietly become a bit of a fan of lately, if I’m honest), they actually look… pretty slick.

Every time I see a pair of these super sleek, low-profile sneakers, I get flashbacks to Kill Bill-era Uma Thurman in those iconic yellow Onitsuka Tigers. But what’s interesting is how far we’ve come since then. Styling from the feet up has evolved massively over the years, and now we’re seeing these kinds of sneakers paired in far more creative, nuanced, and unexpected ways — by people all over the world.

Whether this shift into slim is just a seasonal moment or something longer-term, it’s clear that low-profile has well and truly entered the chat. And if the market keeps leaning this way, you can bet we’ll be seeing a lot more sneakerina energy through the rest of the year.

Why Now? The Bigger Cultural Shift Behind Slim Sneakers

But why now? To really understand the rise of these slim, ballerina-style sneakers, you’ve got to zoom out beyond the shoes themselves. For starters, we’re still deep in the Y2K revival that’s been going strong for the past few years. The early 2000s might’ve once felt like the fashion decade we’d all agreed to leave behind, but now? It’s front and centre. Think wide-cut jeans that puddle over your trainers, boxy cropped tees, retro windbreakers, and even the odd studded belt or Von Dutch cap is making a sneaky return. The kind of thing you’d clock in a grainy paparazzi shot of Pharrell, Kutcher or early-era Beckham.

So naturally, the footwear’s catching up. These slimline sneakers — Speedcats, Taekwondos, Ballerinas, you name it — slot into that aesthetic perfectly. They’re low to the ground, tight to the foot, and bring a sleekness that balances out all that oversized layering up top. It’s a totally different vibe from the padded, chunky look of dad shoes or basketball mids — and honestly, it feels fresher. Lighter. More styled.

There’s also something happening around gender expression in fashion. A lot of what’s trending leans softer, more fluid — and that’s a good thing. More and more guys are moving away from the whole “alpha male uniform” and starting to experiment — with shape, silhouette, and proportion. These kinds of sneakers play into that. They’re not shouting for attention — they’re just part of a fit that feels thought-through and intentional. My wardrobe is simple, but personally, I’ve been leaning into cropped, oversized sweatshirts lately, with wider jeans and a crisp white tee that hangs just a little longer underneath. I can fully see a pair of Speedcats working with that kind of fit.

And as always, TikTok and Instagram have poured petrol on the fire. You watch one reel of someone pulling off an outfit in Speedcats, and suddenly your feed is flooded — styling vids, archival deep-dives, outfit breakdowns from stylists in Paris, Tokyo, Berlin — all rocking some variation of this slim sneaker trend. It might’ve started niche, but once the algorithm locks in, it’s over.

The Key Players in the Slim Sneaker Wave

Puma Speedcat - UK Interest Over Time

There’s no denying the Puma Speedcat is front and centre right now. Originally a motorsport shoe from the early 2000s, it’s been picked up and reimagined by a new gen who — outside of Netflix’s Drive to Survive — couldn’t care less about pit lanes or podiums. It’s all about the shape: narrow, glove-like, low-slung — and the way it complements today’s oversized, puddled fits. You might think it’s already had its viral moment, but if you ask me, it’s just getting started.

adidas have been quick to catch on, too. I’m old enough to remember their original Taekwondo release — I even made the trip to that old store above Size? on Carnaby Street to grab pairs with my friends. The re-release taps into that same stripped-back energy: no frills, just function. And now they’ve doubled down with the adidas Ballerina, a slick collab with Bad Bunny that’s been turning heads. It’s one of those pairs you raise an eyebrow at… until you see it styled to perfection — and suddenly, you find yourself in odd moments where you’re questioning everything in your footwear rotation.

Then there’s the Puma Mostro — another Y2K oddity, brought back from the vaults. I had a pair back in the early 2000s, in quite possibly the ugliest shade of beige you’ve ever seen. It’s got that same slim profile and aggressive toe-down stance that’s become the unofficial blueprint for this whole wave. And again, it felt almost too ahead of its time last year… but in hindsight, it’s starting to make sense.

But this isn’t just about ballerina-adjacent silhouettes. There’s a broader shift happening — one that’s fuelling the entire low-profile trend. Take the rise of the snoafer (sneaker-loafer), led primarily by New Balance with the 1906L, first spotted at Paris Fashion Week last year in their collab with Junya Watanabe. They've been not so quietly quietly pushing this model for a while with GR colourways that sell out instantly, supported by slim models like the RC30, and even the WRPD Runner to an extent. At the same time, we’re seeing a Mary Jane resurgence — with both niche and mainstream brands offering their own spins on that nostalgic, minimalist, ultra-wearable look.

And where’s it all heading? The lines are blurring even more. We’ve got Crocs EXPs coming soon, pushing functionality, comfort, and style all at once. And Louis Vuitton’s Sneakerina is high fashion’s answer to this emerging shape — refined, sculpted, runway-ready. The market’s shifting fast, and it’s moving towards a new kind of sneaker: slim, versatile, wearable — but still styled. Still intentional. And whether you're picking up a GR pair on the high street or eyeing up the Sneakerina runway take, the beauty of this trend is its range — it’s already trickled across price points and scenes.

BUT IS THIS JUST A SPRING/SUMMER FLING?

Look — trends come and go. And while there’s clearly something bubbling here, it’s fair to ask: is this just a seasonal affair?

Let’s be honest, these slim, ballerina-adjacent silhouettes work really well when the weather’s on side. Lighter layers, shorter hems, cropped fits — they all complement that low-profile, sleek shape perfectly. But what happens when we’re deep into October? When you’re battling sideways rain and your toes are freezing off? That sleek minimalism starts to feel a bit less practical, and suddenly you’re thinking the XT-6 might’ve been the smarter choice for a rain-drenched stomp through grey East London.

There’s also a real question around staying power. Because while these shapes are undeniably having a moment — thanks to celebrities, brand campaigns, TikTok algorithms, IG moodboards, and an avalanche of styling vids — they’re also being worn in a very specific aesthetic lane right now. But what happens when the collective mood shifts again?

I’ve seen enough men’s footwear trends come and go to know how this works — especially during the #menswearstyle blog era when everyone was either in Roshe Runs or Common Projects. Each one felt like “the future” at the time… until the industry moved on. Until the consumer moved on.

Could these slim silhouettes go the same way? Or do they have the staying power to hibernate quietly in the wardrobe and come back stronger next Brat Summer?

That said, there are signs this trend might have longer legs (pun absolutely intended). Brands like New Balance and adidas are clearly paying attention — reworking archive shapes, exploring hybrid forms, blurring lines between performance and lifestyle. There’s not necessarily a design revolution happening here — a lot of what we’re seeing are clever reissues — but there’s momentum. Enough to suggest this is more than just a fling.

One thing’s for sure — enjoy it while it’s here. Because whether this is a full-on movement or just a perfectly timed seasonal switch-up, these slimline sneakers are making noise. And for now, it’s refreshing to see something leaner, sleeker, and just a little bit different step into the spotlight, even if I’m not quite ready to throw a pair on myself.

Whether you're an early adopter or watching from the sidelines, there's no denying it — the sneaker world is getting a little more delicate. And honestly? That might not be such a bad thing.