New Guard: SNEAKER Brands Redefining the Landscape
Nike, adidas, New Balance, Jordan, ASICS, Saucony, ON, HOKA, Converse, and REEBOK—these are the heavyweights of the sneaker space, each with its own unique presence. However, this piece isn’t about them. Instead, we're focusing on the up-and-comers, the challengers—the brands making bold, unique moves to influence the sneaker game.
If I were to make a comparison to football (which, frankly, is tough right now as a Spurs fan), these brands are like the grassroots teams dreaming of making it to the top leagues. But while they might be starting small, their ambition and execution are nothing short of elite—think of it like a grassroots team that is moving like they’re already a part of the Champions League (something I can only dream about).
In this article, we’ll explore a select few of these brands that are steadily making a name for themselves. Specifically, we’ll take a closer look at NOTWOWAYS, Flowers for Society, and Zellerfield—three labels currently carving out their own space in the sneaker world.
NOTWOWAYS: THE ONLY WAY
I was recently asked to co-sign an article for GQ on the best British sneaker brands, with a particular focus on NOTWOWAYS, a brand I’ve been following for quite some time. In truth, that article helped inspire this very piece (you can read it here), but what I want to highlight is how the brand has truly set itself apart in the sneaker scene.
Co-founded by content creator Callum McGinley and footwear designer Rockwell Princewell in 2020, NOTWOWAYS quickly established itself as one of the most exciting and innovative brands in the sneaker scene. The brand’s journey began with the launch of their first-ever release, the M1 Exuberance, which introduced a design focus of ‘Complex Simplicity’. This model combined technically complex elements with community-driven features, capturing the essence of what NOTWOWAYS aimed to achieve from the outset.
The initial success was unprecedented—Exuberance sold out in just 63 seconds, and the Moonless colourway followed up with a similarly rapid sellout in 186 seconds. The speed of these sellouts not only validated the brand’s design language but also demonstrated the immense demand and support they had cultivated in the sneaker community from day dot.
In 2021, the brand took another leap forward, solidifying its place in the sneaker world with the M1 Saphfire and the launch of their Model 2: ARW. This year was pivotal, with the first editorial features from well-respected outlets like Sneaker Freaker, Nicekicks and Culted, while the Subsolar release sold out in a mere 11 minutes. As their design language evolved with a focus on ‘Colour Equilibrium’, collaborations and standout campaigns like Apricity Elevated and Afterdark with Jack Bence further pushed their presence. It was in 2021 that the Subsolar, Saphfire, and Afterdark campaigns became some of the most successful in the brand’s history.
The momentum continued into 2022, marking a period of significant growth. With seven major releases that year, NOTWOWAYS expanded their creative boundaries with the introduction of the M1 Syzygy, focusing on the concept of ‘Yin & Yang’. 2022 saw the brand reach new heights, with standout moments such as Sam Ryder wearing NOTWOWAYS during Eurovision and a heavy feature in Harrods, courtesy of The EDIT LDN. Additionally, they held their first-ever pop-up event, offering the community a tangible experience to engage with the brand.
By 2023, NOTWOWAYS had expanded its model lineup with the introduction of three new styles: Formula, Foams, and Koyri, building on their signature design language. The brand pushed into new territory, introducing a water-resistant range called HKE, further solidifying their reputation for innovation. They expanded into new sales channels and were featured on the main stage at Sneakerness in London. Their release strategy in 2023 was bold and diverse, with 15 major drops and a fresh direction that embraced modular design and technical solutions.
In 2024, the brand entered a new phase of expansion, rebranding to NO., a strategic move to bring their designs to wider markets through wholesale partnerships and collaborations. This expansion, which included features at London Fashion Week and the introduction of scented shoes, signaled that NOTWOWAYS was no longer just a sneaker brand—it was becoming a cultural force. 2024 also marked a pivotal moment for their marketing prowess, with fun pokes at the swoosh being part of the narrative.
With a rebrand, new sales channels, and a growing cultural footprint, 2025 is shaping up to be another defining year for the brand. At this rate, it won’t just be NOTWOWAYS—it’ll be the only way.
FLOWERS FOR SOCIETY: the future in bloom
In an industry dominated by legacy giants, few brands dare to challenge the status quo quite like Flowers for Society. Founded in 2021 by Till Jagla, a seasoned industry veteran with over 18 years of experience at the likes of New Balance and adidas, the brand isn’t just about sneakers—it’s about rewriting the rules of how they are designed, distributed, and experienced by consumers and enthusiasts alike.
Jagla’s track record speaks for itself. Over 11 years at adidas, he played a pivotal role in some of the brand’s most game-changing moments. As Global Director for adidas Originals, he was partly responsible for putting the globe in a chokehold with the NMD during 2014/15, he revitalised the EQT line in 2016, and brought back ClimaCool that very same year. He was also leading the charge on miZXFlux, one of the first major forays into sneaker customisation. Later, as Global Head of Energy, he was responsible for infusing hype and storytelling into the brand’s biggest releases, ensuring that each drop resonated far beyond just product.
Now, with Flowers for Society, Jagla is taking his immense experience and flipping the script on sneaker culture.
Their debut sneaker, the Seed.One, was a statement of intent. Featuring an avant-garde slip-on design and a futuristic sculpted midsole, it immediately set the tone for what was to come. But beyond aesthetics, the most disruptive element was its NFT-based membership model—each sneaker purchase came with digital access to future releases, creating an ecosystem where early adopters were rewarded not just with a product, but with a stake in the brand’s evolution.
The unboxing and review from Michael Ngvyen truly demonstrates what is great about this release:
Since then, Flowers for Society has continued to push the limits of sneaker design. From the Radicle to the Offshoot, their drops feel more like art pieces than traditional sneaker releases. Each pair embodies a commitment to progressive thinking, ethical production, and a transparent, community-driven approach.
But this isn’t just about footwear—it’s about shifting mindsets. Flowers for Society is building a future where brands are accountable, creativity thrives, and consumers are part of the journey, not just the transaction. With new silhouettes, collaborative projects, and an expanding global presence on the horizon, the brand isn’t slowing down anytime soon. Oh and they have some pretty slick apparel too.
The seeds have been planted—now, Flowers for Society is ready to bloom.
ZELLERFELD: THE FUTURE REIMAGINED
3D printing is nothing new. The technology has been evolving for some time now, constantly refining its precision and efficiency. But when it comes to footwear, 3D printing has mostly been a novelty—producing concept sneakers that are visually striking, rarely practical and about as comfortable as a pair of wooden clogs. For the most part, these sneakers have either been too rigid or too fragile—more like sculptures or art pieces, not something you would be prepared to take to the streets.
Enter Zellerfeld, the Hamburg-based disruptor brand that’s actually delivering on the hype. Founded by Cornelius Schmitt, Zellerfeld isn’t just dabbling in 3D printing—it’s built a full-scale print factory dedicated entirely to producing high-performance, fully recyclable sneakers. No glue, no traditional stitching, no outdated molds—just one continuous printed structure, sculpted to fit the wearer's feet with accuracy.
The result? A sneaker that doesn’t just look futuristic—it feels it. While big sneaker brands continue to experiment with limited-run concept drops, Zellerfeld is already shipping real products to real customers—a stark contrast to the usual industry approach, where sneaker design often feels like an endless loop of recycled ideas.
As Schmitt himself puts it: “Always the same shit. Same every year.”
Unlike traditional sneaker giants, who rely on mass production in overseas factories, Zellerfeld is proving that on-demand, local manufacturing is possible. Customers reserve a production slot with a small deposit, and once their time comes, they can personalise their sneaker before it’s printed and shipped—all without the massive waste that plagues traditional sneaker production.
The industry may remain skeptical about 3D printing, but Zellerfeld isn’t waiting for validation. With investments from heavyweights like Peter Thiel and high-profile collaborations with brands like Louis Vuitton and Moncler, it’s already proving that printed footwear isn’t just possible—it’s better. More recently, Zellerfeld partnered with Nike to support the creation of the Air Max 1000, a groundbreaking 3D-printed silhouette that debuted at ComplexCon 2024 back in November. The Air Max 1000 represents the future of Nike Air innovation, combining precision manufacturing with cutting-edge 3D-printing technology to produce a sneaker that is as much about expression as it is about performance. Through this collaboration, Nike is bringing its iconic Air Max design into the next era, showcasing how digital tools and advanced manufacturing processes can unlock new possibilities in sneaker design.
But as traditional sneaker brands continue to drag their feet, caught up in legacy systems and resistant to change, the real question looms: How long before they realise they’ve already been outrun? While industry giants remain hesitant, clinging to outdated production methods and slow innovation cycles, disruptors like Zellerfeld are racing ahead, redefining what’s possible in footwear. With 3D printing allowing for unprecedented design freedom, speed, and customisation, the future of sneakers is unfolding in real time. The question isn’t whether this revolution is coming—it’s whether the old guard will adapt fast enough to keep up with the trailblazers. As consumers demand more personalised, sustainable, and cutting-edge designs, the traditional brands risk being left behind, stuck in a race they didn't even see coming.
